Majesty and Massacre at Maroun al Ras

On Sunday May 15, 2011, in observance of Nakba (Catastrophe) Day, Maroun al
Ras welcomed approximately 27% of all the Palestinian refugees in Lebanon,
this time coming from the opposite direction heading back toward their homes
in Palestine. Palestinians in Lebanon now number approximately 248,000,
approximately half of whom live in 12 squalid camps (and as many so-called,
unofficial “gatherings”), although 423,000 remain registered with UNWRA.

The discrepancy in numbers is explained by the fact that Lebanon’s
Palestinian refugees, without any of the most elementary civil rights, in
gross violation of international Law, Lebanon’s Constitution, and bi-lateral
and multilateral agreements, tend to leave Lebanon to seek work, decent
housing, and a better life whenever they are able to secure a visa to Europe
or elsewhere.

For a majority of the more than 72,000 (some estimates this morning exceed
100,000 because many refugees and supporters traveled south independently
and did not register or use provided transportation) arriving from all the
camps and corners of Lebanon, in more than 1200 buses & vans, and many on
foot, it was their first sighting of their country. Lebanon law has long
prevented Palestinians from coming anywhere near the blue line to even look
towards their stolen homes and lands or to cross the Litani River north of
Tyre. This year, for one day only, the Lebanese authorities reluctantly
decided not to interfere with this human rights project.

For the teen-agers on the crowded bus I rode on from Shatila Camp, the
stories and descriptions of Palestine told by their parents and grandparents
was what they talked about.

As we approached Maroun al Ras, some of them were anxious, others silent and
reflective, and some, like many teenagers from my generation about to see
the Beatles or Elvis, were giddy and squealing as the bus rounded a bend in
the road south of Aitayoun and we looked to the approaching hills.

“Is that my country Palestine over there?” Ahmad, a graduate in Engineering
who was born in Shatila camp asked. “Nam Habibi!” (“Yes Dear!”) came the
reply from the microphone of our “bus mother” gripping her clip board and
checking the names to keep track of her flock. This bus seemed to inflate
with delirium as we all smiled and shouted. Some of the passengers had
prepared signs that read: “People want to return to Palestine,” inspired
perhaps by the slogan made famous in Egypt and Tunisia, “People want the
fall of the regime.”

The esprit was reminiscent of a Mississippi freedom ride James Farmer of
CORE used to tell us about and I thought of Ben Gurion’s boast from 1948
that the old will die and the young will forget Palestine. The Zionist
leader could not have been more mistaken. The old, many still vital,
continue to teach and inspire the young from their still-remembered stories,
guaranteeing that the dream of every Palestinian shall never die.

The organizers from the camps did a tremendous job, but no one could have
anticipated the huge numbers who would participate in this truly historic
and likely region-changing event that was also fueled by Facebook, Tweets
and text messages.

All the Palestinian organizations and factions were united for this project.

Hezbollah kept a low profile so as to keep the focus on the Nakba. However,
when the organizers discovered a shortage of buses last week Hezbollah
arranged for more, even bringing some from Syria, where more than 800 buses
were used yesterday to take Palestinians from Syria’s 10 Palestinians camps,
including Yarmouk, to the Syrian Golan border with occupied Palestine.

At certain points along the narrow and winding village roads in South
Lebanon the convoy would pause and Hezbollah members would appear and
distribute bottles of water, fresh croissants and large chocolate-filled
cookies. They also did traffic control work and provided civil defense and
medical services as needed. One imagines it was their guys who erected the
nifty new road signs throughout the South that showed the distance to
Palestine with an arrow pointing toward Jerusalem. Whenever the buses would
pass one of the signs that read in Arabic and English, for example,
“Palestine: 23 km”, our bus would erupt in cheers.

The Mabarat Charity, founded by the late scholar Mohammad Hussein Fadlallah,
who was from the village of Bint Jbeil near Maron al Ras, operates several
gas stations, the proceeds of which are used to support orphans, discounted
gas on Nakba Day for the hundreds of buses & vans.

It is difficult to exaggerate the camaraderie, emotion and sheer power of
the event. The came to renew their commitment and send the world a message
that they are determined to return to their land no matter the sacrifices
required. For some coming to see Palestine, including some of those who have
been forced out of their homes and off their lands, 63 years ago, it appeared
to be almost a sacred and religious act.

One man, who appeared to be in his 80’s stood not far from me and gazed
toward his stolen land near Akka, seen in the distance. Suddenly he slumped
to the ground. Two of us elevated his legs and tried to make him comfortable
on the rocky ground until first aid arrived.

My best friend in Shatila camp, Zeinab Hajj, whose father walked from his
village of Amouka near Safad as a child, stared toward Safad also visible in
the distance. Tears ran down Zeinabs cheeks as she gazed at her village. It
was a common sight among the old and the young. Even toddlers whose parents
wanted them to witness and be part of this historic day appeared to grasp
its solemnity and importance.

For the large American contingent and other international guests observing
Nakba Day 2011 at Maroun al Ras , it was a majestic and cherished experience.

However as the World soon learned, 10 Palestinians were killed by Israeli
snipers and more than 120 wounded, some critically. None of the demonstrators
had weapons. Those murdered were all civilians from the camps and were
shot in cold blood as they nonviolently placed Palestinian flags at the fence
and gave the peace and victory sign. After Israeli troops fired on them, some
threw rocks at the soldiers. Fortunately some lives were saved by a field
hospital affiliated with the group, the Martyr Salah Ghandour Hospital, from
nearby Bint Jbeil.

Zionist occupation forces, some peering out from behind trees or barriers,
could be clearly seen by those gathered near the blue line at Maroun Al Ras.
One knowledgeable source informed this observer that unseen Hezbollah
resistance fighters at one time yesterday afternoon had as many as 32
Israelis in the cross-hairs as they silently watched what was happening but
did not fire which would only have accommodated Israel’s deadly wishes.

Meanwhile, Lebanon has filed a complaint against Israel with the UN Security
Council calling on it to pressure Israel to stop its hostile and provocative
policies against Lebanon and hold it accountable for killing civilians.
Today is a day of general strikes in the camps in mourning for the victims
who were killed with funerals being held in the refugee camps of al-Bass,
Burj al-Shemali, Mieh Mieh and Ain al-Hilweh. All UNWRA schools are closed.

Hezbollah’s Secretary-General Hassan Nasrallah commended Lebanon’s
Palestinians this morning as he explained his interpretation of Nakba Day
2011:

There must be no more resistance to Palestinians being granted the
elementary right to work and to own a home. Yesterday at Maroun al Ras
Lebanon’s Palestinians once again earned the right to live in dignity and
care for their families until The Return. As the Palestinians continue their
struggle for elementary civil rights here in the inhumane camps of Lebanon,
they and the advocates are heartened by Nasrallah's words of a few hours
ago: